bar arm rail – cutting the angles

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  • #19329 Score: 0
    Anonymous

      i need help with cutting the angles, for the oak bar rail. i know the angle is at 45 degrees but what is the bevel cut at. having trouble matching the two peices together.

      any help would do

      thanx

      #19781 Score: 0
      scootbk wrote:
      i need help with cutting the angles, for the oak bar rail. i know the angle is at 45 degrees but what is the bevel cut at. having trouble matching the two peices together.

      any help would do

      thanx

      I didn’t have to do any bevel cuts for my armrails. I placed a piece on the bar top and then nailed together a piece underneath that to form the “side” of the rail (vertical portion). The ends of both pieces are cut at 45 to match the 45 cuts from the front pieces.

      Not sure what you are doing different that you need bevel cuts for, so I’m not sure I can help much.

      #19782 Score: 0
      brimichm
        1 pt

        Correct, if you were to hold the rails exactly as they sit on the bar. All you would need to do is cut each side at the proper 45′ angle. Why are you needing to do a bevel cut and a 45′ cut at the same time ?

        #19785 Score: 0
        Anonymous

          I have found that some cheaper miter saws (even expensive ones) are not always calibrated to exactly 45 degrees.

          I highly recommend doing some test cuts with your saw using some cheap pine 1×4’s. Verify the cuts with a hand square, then adjust your saw if needed.

          Also, a sharp, fine tooth blade is absolutely nesessary when working with Oak. A dull blade will burn & warp as it cuts making clean 45’s nearly impossible to achieve.

          Edited By admin on 1135354349

          #20146 Score: 0
          Anonymous

            when you cut your 45 degree mitre on your saw, you must set your moulding on the table the same way it will set on the finished top. Try a “jig” built with scrap pieces from the top and support the moulding so it sits flat on your table.

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