February 28, 2007 at 1:18 am #19185
I just started my bar over this past weekend and I have gone from building it with a Keg-box to Kegerator back to Keg-box about 100 times.
But after talking to many people about Kegerators (ones that cost $499-$799 anything above that shoots my budget) and how they have a somewhat high rate of breaking. A guy at Home Depot told me that out of 16 that came once, 9 were returned within 60 days.
I’ve read many postings dealing with the keg-box. Some people say it works great and others say they can’t seem to get the keg-box to cool down enough. Given that it’s getting harder to find the type of frig with the exposed coils is it still a good option.
I love the idea of building the keg-box, I like mounting the tap on the bar top (giving that clean, custom look), I love the cost … that is if it’s going to work.
Not sure if there is answer out there I’m looking for other then maybe some positive renforcement.
Thanks guys!!!!!!February 28, 2007 at 4:15 pm #19964Anonymous
Hi, I can tell you honestly that my kegerator works like a dream. I also think that is because I have a fridge with external coils. I also added 3 pc case fans, one inside blowing over the freezer plate. the other ones blow over the rear coils, and compressor. I have frozen my beer lines already from being too cold. My advise, keep looking for a external coil fridge. Once you start looking around you may find one used. Alot of students use them at college. just think and you will come up with one. I found mine at work, one of the guys had it at his work station. I had a little bigger fridge that i traded with him. good luck on decidingFebruary 28, 2007 at 4:50 pm #19965Anonymous
can you put the tap tower on top of your bar if you insatall a store bought kegerator?March 1, 2007 at 7:13 pm #19967
I know the plans call for a 2.7 size frig but I have a 3.6 but it’s has the coils tucked away.
My question is: If the coils are inside on the frig the keg-box design will not work?March 1, 2007 at 7:21 pm #19968
I’m still learning but from what I have been told, relocating the tap off a Kegerator is not recommended. The person I talked to told me that the tap is somewhat built into the frig top and to remove it would require cutting the frig top around the tap. It can be done but his question to me was why mees up the system. You can buy upper-end systems that allow the tap to be removed and remotly located but those systems are over $1000.00 (My budget tells me to go keg-box).March 1, 2007 at 8:38 pm #19969Anonymous
My fridge does not have exposed coils and I haven’t had a problem yet. I also went with a larger fridge, but had to adjust the plans to make it fit.
So far the fridge cools just fine. I’ve insulated it very well so it really doesn’t have to do to much work.
Good luck.March 1, 2007 at 10:25 pm #19971
Thanks for the feedback!!
I hope to seal up the keg-box better then Fort Knox
I just started my bar over the weekend and I’m working off the Kegger bar plans but only as a general guide. I have changed it up enough to accept the larger frig.March 2, 2007 at 10:08 am #19972Anonymous
The key is this: If the freezer plate makes frost, you’re in business, no matter where the coils are.
The second key is CIRCULATE AIR over that cold freezer plate!
One fan will work fine, two is always better, and a third to cool the compressor will pull extra life from the unit is better yet.
Glad to hear people are having success on their keg boxes.
The best part?
If it ever breaks, you’ll know exactly how to fix it!March 5, 2007 at 10:57 am #19974Anonymous
thanks robss396,but i was told you can remove any kegerator tower tap without cutting,wish i knew the for sure answer,cause it seems to a lil pain in the butt to build a kegeratorMarch 5, 2007 at 11:23 am #19976Anonymous
beerbaron what kind of adjustments did you have to make for your bigger fridge?March 5, 2007 at 8:57 pm #19978Anonymous
my fridge is about 3.9 cu ft. I think.
Anyway, I didn’t intend to build the kegger box when I was building my bar, I was going to just install a kegerator. I found out what a lot of people on the site already knew, that I wouldn’t be able to have the tap tower on top of the bar unless I went with a high-end kegerator.
So after the bar was built, I bought a fridge that would fit underneath the bar, and built the box around it. I used the plans for the 8 ft straight bar as a guide, but I didn’t have any measurements or anything. I basically just took the plans as an understanding of how the keg box would work and just made it fit.
I built a frame to fit around the refridgerator and where I would attach the door, then I insulated (using a ton of great stuff foam to make sure my foam boards would adhere). Then I added the door.
Because I wasn’t following any real plans, I went extra heavy on spray foam. So far it works great.
I think I was supposed to send you some pics but never did Casper. Sorry about that. I’ll send some today of what the bar looks like, front and back. I’ll take some more after to give you a look of the inside.
Later.March 5, 2007 at 8:59 pm #19979Anonymous
If I had it to do over again, I’d either incorporate the plans for the 8 ft straight kegger with the L shaped bar or go with the L shaped dual level from the start.July 24, 2015 at 4:02 pm #29821sam2014Participant2 pts
For best results use a compact FREEZER. They make them now and they are about the same cost as a compact fridge. It’s best to load them with jugs of water (you can use salt water to prevent freezing) then blow air past them with 12VDC fans.September 20, 2015 at 6:27 pm #30012
i use a small freezer as well…no problems on cooling..although the temp reads a little higher now after i went through my first keg…maybe too much ice forming on the plates…might try that salt water jug trick though
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