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If you are using some fancy browser add-in or pop-up blocker, turn it OFF or add barplan.com as a trusted site. if you select a plan and get no pop up window, that’s the reason.
The CHBD is designed for use with IE, Chrome or Firefox browsers only. Desktop or laptop is best, tablet should work fine.
Due to it’s limited screen size, using it on a cell phone is NOT recommended.You can use virtually any material to build your bar top. I see no problem using hardwood bowling ally material.
minor resizing is very easy. start at the base and work up.
wadethecat:
go with two section A’s. You just have to layout the other in reverse, but it’s symmetrical. Cheers!
BTW – on new years eve I got to meet Bakhtiari, Cobb, Lacy and Tolzien at a friends private party. GO Pack! (next year)
It would take a little manual reconfiguration, but you could just frame out two section A’s, laying out one normally and the other in reverse and use it to replace section C. The CHBD is NOT required to do this. Just understand the basic core framing and modify it as need.
Always happy to help a fellow Packer Fan!
Treated CDX is recommended as the bar top base layer. I do not recommend OSB for the bar top, only the sides and then that should be covered with paneling of some sort.
If building outside, use all treated, especially in high humidity areas.
42″ is the ideal bar top height.
28″ to 30″ are bar height stools.If course if you are very tall or very short you can adjust as needed.
[attachment=98]bar-height.png[/attachment]
Once you study the plan, it is very easy to modify it’s size. Just add or subtract equal measure from each of the horizontal base studs that are length related. Once you add the uprights, all the rest of the dimensions just fall into place.
You’ll need to follow the framing shown in the plans, but you will need to verify measurements as you go. It’s been done like this for years with no issue.
It’s symmetrical, so just lay it out in reverse. Once you get past the base framing, it becomes much easier.
If you need a reverse screen shot, I can post…see sam2014 post below…
Charles, sorry for the delay, I guess I missed this question…
I would only go as low as required for “comfortable” lighting can installation. Any further forgoes the use of glass racks or some other use of that space.
happy to hear you got it sorted out. The new compact FREEZER units are said to work even better. Haven’t tried one yet myself. Cheers!
Not sure I am visualizing this right, but just maintain a dam that you can remove. You want to use something waxy for the dam. I use 1/4″ hardboard covered with wax paper held in place with brads nails from an air nailer.
I highly recommend air powered brad nailers and a finish nailers.
For the bar top I usually use PL-200 construction adhesive, clamps and a few strategically placed pneumatically driven finish nails. Putty any holes and sand and stain before putting on the Etex.
I wouldn’t be too worried about 3/4″Maple flooring warping, cupping or cracking. After all, it doesn’t warp when used as flooring.
Just be sure to seal it properly. Envirotex Lite is the best choice.
The only way it MIGHT warp is if you get it excessively wet or let it sit in water without any sealer.
Many other members have already used hardwood flooring for their bar top with no ill effects.