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to be honest, I’ve been fighting so many battles with Google just to keep the site alive that I’ve had zero time to work on any new plans. I’m hoping we can recover, otherwise the site might go bust – thanks to Google and the big money players out there like Houzz.com and their spammy house porn site.
most of what you’ll find at Rockler is hardwood. Pine is soft and quite easy to fashion yourself. Did you look at the DIY guide for arm rail molding? It’s in the download area under advanced projects. See: https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_document/17-embp-06-covecut-armrail
I didn’t use hinges at all!
The door was made to fit very snugly, (I made it 1/8″ smaller than the door opening which gives you a mere 1/16th on each side, it would never swing closed with this tight clearance!) then weather stripped around the edges with foam rubber.I then used common window latches that you can find at you hardware store on the middle of the left and right sides. Once the latches are secure, they compress the foam and seal that baby TIGHT! I never open it again until the tap spits and it’s time to change it out for a fresh barrel.
I installed two handles on the door to assist removal. It needs a good tug to open once it’s been sealed for a few weeks. Removing the whole door is great and gives me the max width opening to maneuver that beast in.
This also helps reduce the amount of frost that forms when people keep “checking” to see if the kegs still there…lol I even threw a container of Damp Rid in there to soak up any excess moisture in the air.
The CO2 and regulator MUST stay outside the box. I used a cheap, wired temp sensor and it hangs a few inches from the top of the keg box, right in the fan breeze. That assures a good mixed air reading. The display is mounted up by the tap. Mine stays about 35F and is set to about 50% duty.
One other option is to fore go using hinges at all! Make the door fit snug, then apply latches to each side. This keeps the door tightly closed and as it should STAY closed. The only time the door should be opened is when your keg spits and it’s time to change it.
The CO2 and regulator MUST stay outside so you can adjust pressure. There is no need to keep the super cold liquid CO2 cold. It’s under pressure. A wired digital temp sensor is placed in the box and the display mounted outside where you can read it.
You should never, EVER, E V E R! assume the part is the correct size. you should ALWAYS “Measure Twice, Cut Once”. This is covered in the user guide, but of course, nobody ever reads that. The CHBD is a guide, not the end-all-be-all of resizing.
That said, many, many others have not experienced any problems.
Your inaccuracy could be due to improper use of the resizing tool. Can you provide any specific examples of these inaccuracies? On which plan did you see this issue?
I’ve had several similar reports, so rather than open a new ticket, here’s the answer: Yup, I know about the issue and I’m on my way over to the gallery to check it out. I know it’s due for a an upgrade and some major maintenance. Too many things going on as always!
Check out the gallery and also the growing number of photos on our facebook page at: http://www.facebook.com/EasyHomeBarPlans Don’t forget to “like” our page. Thanks!
It’s temporarily removed for revisions. Thinking of doing a complete redo of that plan to make it CHBD friendly. (it was designed well before the CHBD existed)
There are a few minor differences in the cut lists, particularly with sub items that are marked with a “letter”, like 9a or 9b.
Those are usually parts you can figure out with a little common sense.As far as material list prices, the ones on the assembly doc were posted years ago, while the CHBD is a bit more up to date. Prices are simply ballpark estimates (they vary often).
This is not a complicated design, so interpretation is relatively easy.
you should be ok doing that…sorry for the delay on the reply.
First off, Envirotex Lite is the product to use, and it will stick to metal. Be sure you have built up a “wall” all around the perimeter because envirotex stays liquid for a very log time.
I heat gun is fine, but a propane torch works better. Don’t worry, envirotex is not flammable.Typically no, you should stain everything once you have it fully assembled and the glue is dry and boards final sanded.
Many people have done this. In most cases (every kegerator is a little different) the tap tower is removed, them mounted to the bar top. The new gap between the tower and the units is closed using PVC drain pipe filled with spray foam insulation.
Alternately, you can notch the bar top and slide the unit right into place. See the builder’s gallery for examples, there are many.
Will the bar be in full sun? or are you building it in the shade?
Treated wood should be fine in the sun. Use Envirotex and it will repel moisture and UV. Search the forum for tons of info on Envirotex.