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Here is a very similar product – 24″ x 48″ is about $80
Comes in many colors. You will also need corner pieces shown under “accessories” on that page.
Dan: You shouldn’t have any trouble building the core of the bar. To get the rough sawn look on the front, I would first sheet it with something cheap, like 1/2″ OSB or the cheapest plywood you can find, then cover that with a factory rough sawn product, like cedar or rough cut pine. Even half log tongue & groove siding would look nice. Can’t help you on lumber sources in the UK, but maybe Google could help. Good luck and have fun!
You can also do it much cheaper using surgical tubing and a funnel. Check Amazon.
You don’t. If you hit negative numbers, you’ve gone too far. The CHBD is good for “nominal” changes in size only.
If you have hit negative numbers, you’ve gone so small as to basically eliminate those parts.
Go to the following link to get exact sizes for kegerator units.
You’re looking at about: 35″ H x 20″ W x 26-1/2″ D for the kegerator unit itself.
Some people just modify the floor by “C-sectioning” the floor in the kegerator area (cutting the front support 2×4 and omitting the raised floor) or depending upon the unit you buy, just remove the feet.
Sorry for the delay…I’d use a brown or tan color caulk with a 15 to 30 year rating. Most of it nowadays is good for 30 years.
That is a two part process. The bar and bar back need to be resized separately then laid out together. It’s been done like this for many years. The CHBD is helpful, but it’s not that involved.
It’s very easy to manually resize…just study the plans and you’ll see length is easily modified.
I prefer 36″, but it’s up to you. I’m 6’4″ and 280lbs so I need the room!
See the photo by “braxton” with the Busch kegerator. He just used pipe insulation which is also fine.
There’s no product that I know of…you could use felt, but that might slide. You could also use silicone adhesive which would prevent sliding and eventually be removable if needed.
I agree with upgrading to pro pink. Be sure you foam the seams tight and double up layers where you can.
Consider this idea…
The freezer unit works a bit different from the fridges which have an exposed freezer plate over which you can circulate air.
The freezer conducts heat through the inner side wall.
When those compact freezers are in actual use as a compact freezer, they are usually loaded with bags of frozen veggies , frozen meat, ice cubes, whatever…they work better loaded.
I think the solution would be to load the empty freezer with as many bottles of water that you can. Cooling the water bottles will transfer more heat than just the flat walls of the freezer. The bottles increase overall surface area.
I always recommend adding water bottles to any keg box. You can also run filtered water (RO) to the bar and loop 50′ of tubing in the fridge area.
1st: the molding must be in it’s level position. this requires the same profile of plywood that will support it in its final position.
2nd: measure the inside length, then cut it slightly larger, then work down to your exact fit.
See the topic for arm rail molding – https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/forum/54-embp-06-cove-cut-arm-rail-guide
Absolutely! – The plans are symmetrical for left or right handed layout, you just need to take it step by step and lay it out in reverse.