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  • I bought this as a tester bar rail (2 ft piece): http://www.kegworks.com/traditional-woo … p=nextopia and it fit very well. The 3 inch length fit fine. Only adjustement was moving my bar top board (not permenanetly attached yet) forward less than 1/4″ to make more snug into the bar rail. Even though they have a height of 1 1/4″ in their diagram, it still fit with my height of 1 1/2″. Why/How? I couldn’t tell you…can only say it fits… :)
    Their delivery is quick 2-3 day turnaround. I ordered my two 8 ft pieces Friday and FedEx tracking has delivery scheduled for tomorrow (Tuesday).
    With their delivery fee, they were about $20 more than Rockler for the two 8 ft pieces, but since I got my test piece from them, I stayed with them.

    DWASH

    in reply to: 45 Degree Bar premade Bar Rail #20880 Score: 0

    Meant to add, I ordered Kegworks, 2 ft oak bar rail (Traditional Wood Bar Arm Rest Molding – Oak
    #BARRAIL-RO) as a ‘tester’ and it fit.

    in reply to: 45 Degree Bar premade Bar Rail #20879 Score: 0

    I was also confused with Rockler’s measurements thinking they would not fit. I looked at the other site (KegWorks): http://www.kegworks.com/traditional-woo … p=nextopia
    and ordered the two ft section to test and see what adjustments I may need to make (I thought I would have to go out a buy 1/2″ oak plywood vs the 3/4″ I had already cut to size to meet the 1 1/4″ height). Lo and behold, their rail fit almost perfectly with the 1 1/2″ height the instructions had me do. When I say almost, all I need to do is move the bar top forward no more 1/4″ to make the tightest fit. Luckily for me, I followed the suggestion of not making the final attachement of the bar top until I did a test fit with a bar rail…I ordered my two 8 ft sections on Friday and waiting for Mr. FedEx (according to their tracking) to deliver tomorrow (two business day turnaround)!
    KegWorks prices are good but their delivery charge was a little high. Between Rockler and Kegworks, price plus delivery was only a $20 difference in favor of Rockler but since I tested Kegworks, I went with them.

    Once the rail is installed; final trim, sanding, staining with poly and I am ready for my “Stock the Bar” party…

    I know this was an old question form 2010 but know current folks are asking the same questions so I just wanted to add my 2 cents.
    The site has definitely helped me (rookie builder) get to where I am, thanks Admin, Sam and to all those that posted pictures of their work!

    DWASH

    in reply to: Base Layer Measurements and over hang #20878 Score: 0

    I made my base layer (osb plywood) flush with inside (bartender side of bar) part of 2 x 10 and overhang about 7″ on the outside (drinking side of bar).

    Your inside beer gutter board will overhang on top of the flush 2×10 and base layer plywood. This overhang will be 4 inches.

    DWASH

    in reply to: Best type of wood to use #20867 Score: 0

    Started my bar (45 degree bar) about 3 weeks ago, my first “carpentry” job. I took the cut list for the studs (regular 2×4) and purchased those from HD. Cut those at home per the specs and put together. Knowing how I am with measuring, I didn’t get any plywood until the frame was together then measured what I did to see how far off I was from the cut measurements from the spec sheet. Then went back to HD, for some plywood sheets (Pine) for the interior counter level shelf and bottom shelves. Had HD do the major cuts for me (took the spec sheet with me so they had an idea what I was doing. At home, if the cuts weren’t exact, I did what I had to do to make fit and look right. (best they cut too big and you cut down to your size)
    Just went yesterday and bought oak (hardwood) plywood sheets for the outer wall and oak (hardwood) planks for the bar top layer. I again had HD cut the boards to my measurements. I just followed the wood recommendations in the instructions.
    Even though I have already made numerous trips to the store, I found it better to get the pieces in the cut sizes I needed as I went along. I am glad I did because some of my measurement were a little off and I had to make the adjustments. I still say it looks good for my first time…will post pics when I am done.
    Next trip or two will be for the trim wood pieces. Not sure what type of wood I will use, but I don’t think these need to be oak
    Oh, by the way, if the instructions state to make sure you get boards that are straight, follow it! Trust me, lol…I’m still working around my glitches!
    Good Luck…

    in reply to: Framing flushness on Inside of bar #20849 Score: 0

    OK, I had another set of eyes (the wife) look at the diagram…she says #70, 71 and 72 are “flush” with #61, 62, 63 and 69. I was looking at it as if #70, 71 and 72 met “on top” of #61, 62, 63 and 69…flush makes sense to have the 1.5″ height difference …I have been looking at this for a few hours trying to figure out and she did it in 10 minutes… 😳

    in reply to: Framing flushness on Inside of bar #20848 Score: 0

    Reb162, I am at this same point with my build. #65, 66, 67 appear flush but clearly the instructions point at #61, 62, 63 are 1.5″ above upright. Since you were at this point as of Feb 17th, what did you do to resolve? Did you make #61, 62 and 63 flush and kept going? Have you finished your bar yet?

    in reply to: EHBP-09 45 Degree Bar #01, 82 & 83 #20837 Score: 0

    Just purchased my wood from the supply list and saw this also.
    Is this an error in that the material should have been 1″x 8″x 8′ ?
    Haven’t reached that part of the build but I’ll prob return the board I bought (1″ x 6″ x 8′) and get the 1″ x 8″ x 8′

    in reply to: Build bar on concrete floor or lay tile first? #20834 Score: 0

    Thanks Josh for asking the same question I needed the answer to. Have installed tiling on the concrete floor. Plan on building the “L” shape and will use the adhesive as recommended. Will also attach the end against the wall into the wall, (will try to hit a stud). Thanks guys for the recommendation.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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