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If you don’t mind possibly having a seam in the middle. Why not build the bar top as one piece (removable)and make it 1/8″ longer than you need. Then, cut the top into two ( removing this 1/8″extra blade width ) and attach the sections on the bottom side with a piano hinge etc… This now allows you to remove and fold the top to a smaller size. May need to attach some fairly beefy hinge depending on the weight of the top.
No, altering the length to fit your room is ok. That’s what’s nice about these plans, you can use as is or modify to suit your needs. These plans make a great backbone from which to start from to get you going.
By no means am I saying this is the minimum space needed to work properly while working the bar. But, my bar is 30″ from the wall running parallel to the back of it. Seems to be enough space to walk /stand behind and bend down and grab things from the shelves. Carrying cases of beer has also never been an issue and loading bottles into the built in bar fridge is not a problem. Hope this gives you a good starting point in which to test from.
If I recall there were instructions on the box on getting a matt finish ? I wonder if rubbing the finish with very,very fine grit sandpaper or even wet sanding might give a frosted look and still leave it very smooth ?
Good question , we also use windex etc… Maybe we should visit the manufacturer’s web site ?
Should not need to worry about the bar tipping over with that weight ! Not sure but, perhaps adding a few more vertical supports to the frame would not hurt ?
I used sanded latex grout and thinset not dry fit. Because the accent (larger) tiles were thicker I used less under them and more under the smaller tiles. But still the tiles were not quite even. My first pour did not cover the larger tiles but, the second did.
Again, thanks I enjoyed building the bar but also like helping others in getting good results.Glad to hear in the end it worked out for you. Hopefully others will learn from your experience as you had from other members. That’s what its all about here right ?
I think the gallon size gave my straight bar about 3/8 ” , enough to cover thicker tiles. Try the 1/2 gallon size you can always add more if needed. Why not try using the polyurethane coat to stick the tickets down ? Just try to flatten the tickets best you can first.
paul_new,
Yes, take a minute and read the bar finish forum. There are plenty of articles about the importance of sealing ALL possible seems and cracks. Also, different techniques used by many of us depending on situation.
I guess which finish to use depends on the cost and time you have. I believe that the envirotex is equal to about 50 coats of varnish. Again, some have even used glass etc… Take some time and look at the members gallery for ideas also.I agree completely. You spent to much time and effort to make the top now look cheap. You may even try to find tempered glass to protect yourselves from cuts should an accident happen. But, I wonder what the cost difference would be ?
If you wipe up any spills the little moisture that is left behind would evaporate in no time and be dry again. Are you worried about wear from being the continuous or repeated use in one spot ? Occasionally add a layer to the area then.
Or, is this bar going to be outside in the elements of humidity ?I forget and my inside is all skinned so I can’t tell. I’m sure the printed plans were quite clear, I don’t remember having an issue there. I’m sure the admin will have your answer Have another look at the printed plans it must be there ? If I had to guess the footrest top goes in place after the sides ? ( 50 /50 guess)
I bought the kit that totalled 1 gal if all was mixed. I poured 50% of each for the first pour. After that you can judge how much more is needed for the second pour. like I said, I used tiles that were two different thicknes so the first pour only covered the thin tiles and part of the others. Mix only half and you should be able to judge from there.
Put a layer of polyurethane etc… to seal the wood and seems. Also use wood putty that matches the finish if there are any openings that might let the sealer and envirotex run into. You will end up with cavaties and an uneven surface.