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Follow the instructions explicitly and use a torch to eliminate the bubbles! It took me several coats to get the thickness I needed because I had some 1/2″ voids to fill.
No, but that’s a cool idea! I have a whole bunch of them sitting in a drawer. Now that I’ve gained some woodworking skills from this site maybe I build a case for them and display them behind my bar.
Sorry, I guess I can only attach one picture at a time. Here’s the first one.
I ran mine through the foot step on the left hand side, then up and behind the keg box through some conduit, and then finally above the fridge, where my outlets are. I screwed up and didn’t put any outlets above the workspace counter, so I had to put a surge protector there. I would put at least one four bank of outlets above and below your counter. I also have a couple of outlets running through a switch for lights.
You can see where the cord comes in on the lower left corner of the bar in the first pic. The outlets are shown in the second pic. I used an extension cord.
I used filler that is recommended for staining. It looks a little darker than the wood when stained, but as long as your “craftsmanship errors” aren’t too egregious it isn’t very noticeable.
I’m using an Edgestar compact freezer/fridge with lots of Pro Pink insulation and Great Stuff to fill the gaps. I also used two 12 volt muffin fans blowing in opposite directions mounted in front of the freezer and they seem to circulate the air well enough, even though I have them running at 5 volts to keep the noise down and extend their life. Right now I have my keg box at 29 degrees with the freezer/fridge dial right on the edge between the freezer and fridge. I like really cold beer!
There’s pictures of my setup in the gallery on here.
I used a bar rail from Denoon lumber and it turned out pretty good. There’s pictures of it on here. I didn’t really follow the plans much when it came to the bar top. I just built it the way I wanted it and made a lip for the bar rail to sit on. I’m definitely glad I went this route instead of using the rectangular rail that the plans call for. My bar rail is very comfortable on the arms!
I used a string of Holiday Showtime LED lights that were on sale for 20 bucks at Kmart. Yes, very simple! I did purchase an extra set on clearance after Christmas was over, but I dread ever having to replace them. My intent was to make the bottom layer of the bar top removable via screws, but fear this will be very difficult due to a lot of Envirotex that seeped through along the edges and likely glued everything tight. If I were doing it over I would have cut out a center section and made that removable. Hopefully the LEDs will last forever like they are supposed to.
Now just have to get some friends to move this bar in from the garage. God, it’s heavy!
Cheapest I could find. Shipping was fast an reasonable and the bar rail looks great!
I’m doing a pinball bar top and used a 3 layer method. The bottom layer is BC plywood. The middle layer is exposed where the beer gutter, drip tray and holes in the pinball playfields are. I also cut out the center so I could run LED Christmas lights through there. The top layer consists of two pinball playfields and a couple of filler sections of oak plywood.
Pouring the Envirotex was a real pain in the butt, and I was not able to fill in the playfield holes without it drying cloudy, even though I only poured 1/8″ at a time like the directions recommend. It turned out pretty nice though.
The Christmas lights were on sale at Kmart for $20 and I’d post a link, but they don’t seem to have them available anymore now that Christmas is over. They were Holiday Showtime 120ct LED lights. I’m going to stop by there and see if they still have any on clearance and get a spare set or two if I can. I don’t know if I’d ever be able to get the bar top back apart to swap them out though if I had to. Lots of Envirotex leaked through and probably glued everything tight. If I were doing it over again I’d make a center cutout section in the bottom piece of plywood to allow access to the lights.
I’m using a pair of these and they work great.
I’m also using this latch:
I have a nice tight seal and my compact freezer/fridge keg box holds 30 degrees easily.
Moderator, could you please move this topic to the Cool Bar Theme Forum? I put it here by mistake.
I have been diligently working on the barcade. Pouring the bar top and staining everything is proving to be a very lengthy/tedious process. I don’t think I will make my original goal of having it done by Christmas, but New Year’s seems doable.
Here’s a video of the pinball playfield bar top:
Also, a picture taken after last weekend…
I think you have to make it a little bigger than the spec. A standard quarter barrel keg (or a half barrel) has a circular footprint of 16-1/8 inches, so you’d need the keg box to be at least 32-1/4 inches long. I made mine just barely large enough to accomodate 2 half barrels, but in reality I’ll be using mostly slim quarters or 1/6 barrels because I went with a triple tap.
That’s funny, I looked all over and could not find Pro Pink in the 1.5″ size at all. All I could get was 1/2″, 1″ and 2″ at my local Home Depot, so I bought one sheet of each. I don’t plan on using any styrofoam.
I don’t have my door built yet, but with a chunk of 2″ insulation blocking the door opening my keg box will get down to 25 degrees (using an Edgestar freezer/fridge) on the freezer setting.
Here’s a picture of my bar in progress, showing the freezer: