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Take a look in the Builder’s Gallery and you will find a ton of photos showing the bar top layer constriction.
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/index.php?cat=26
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=260&pid=2091#top_display_media
https://www.barplan.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=260&pid=2086#top_display_media
Can you point out the exact page in the plans that is unclear?
That should work fine…think about it…you are passing air over ice – ice is 32F – if you move more air, eventually the air inside the box will reach equilibrium and be 32F. There is no magic involved, just basic thermodynamics.
Go to your local gas station or liquor store and open the glass doors. Listen to all the fans running. I’d double up on what you have there. One blowing in, one blowing out may help move more air.
Be sure to NOT open the door! Use a wired or wireless thermometer (be sure it’s accurate by immersing in in an ice water bath and verifying the temp is 32F).
Also place your CO2 tank OUTSIDE the keg box. It can take up to 24 hours or more for the temp to reach the 30’s. A full keg of beer is a LOT of liquid mass to cool. Always buy your beer cold. Some have purchased warm kegs and they take even longer.most models can be made to fit.
The trimmed opening is 24.50″ wide by 32.00″ high.
Most kegerators are about 48.50 high with the tower attached, 20″ to 24″ wide and 24″ to 25″ deep. Without the tower they are usually 35″ high.
To shorten the kegerator, you can remove the upper rail (if equipped) and remove the feet or casters to buy more space. If you still need more height, just assemble part #24 of the keg box framing with 4 screws (no glue), then once the bar is ready for final trim, remove part 24 and the bar top supports will keep everything securely together. That will allow for a 38.5 high opening, more than enough for any store bought kegerator.
The depth should be OK. The bar provides a full 24″ (25.50″ to back edge of base), but some kegerators can be slightly more at 24 13/16″. In those cases the door will extend out an inch or so, but that is fine.
Here’s a link to our recommended Kegerator site.
SHOP FOR RECOMMENDED KEGERATORS > https://www.barplan.com/m/home-bar-kegerator/
The EHBP-03 is recommended instead. Just leave out the keg box if you like.
First off, I’ll move this question to to proper topic area…I am assuming you are building EHBP-01…
Yes, there should be a gap at the top. It won’t be seen. You can tightened it up if you like, but I wouldn’t worry about it. The gaps can be covered with trim.
Look at page 12 of the plans document…you can also see the small 1/2″ gap at the top of part 17. That small gap is hidden by the overhang of the bar rail (part 18) or, like I said above, it can be hidden with an optional top trim strip.
It’s hard to say exactly why it’s 1/2 shorter than needed, probably to allow for easy installation and rounded down to the nearest acceptable whole number. That plan was designed in 1996 and it (the gap) hasn’t been an issue for anyone since.
BTW, you can always make your finish panel (16 & 17) 1/2″ higher and it will cover your OSB (14 & 15)gap.
A1: They are used to extend the sides inward to provide an edge to attach and support the floor panel. Page 6 of the plans clearly shows them. You can also use fragmented scraps of 2×4 to serve the same function. They don;t need to fit exactly, just need enough to provide support for the floor panel. Hope that helps.
A2: If you lower the leveling feet, you can sometimes gain another 3/4 perhaps. If you buy something that needs a higher opening, just add the height to the bar vertical supports to suit your needs. This can be done either manually or using the CHBD.
12VDC Fans should not generate any measurable heat.
The big question is, do you have frost forming on the freezer plate? (your fridge must have the little freezer compartment with a door…tear the door off)
If so, you’re in luck. Now you must move the air across the freezer plate to increase the heat transfer.Does your fridge have a rear exposed coil? If so, add a fan there too.
The best recommendation today is the new compact FREEZER units.
Oh, and keep the door shut at ALL times! If you keep opening the door to check the temp, it will never get cold. Get a remote temp sensor.
Hope this helps.
Looks like that bar is using an artificial stone product, so no, all you need is bare wood and the proper adhesive. Check with your local home center. As I recall that stuff (stone) ain’t particularly cheap.
Page 15 of the plans shows the relationship of the beer gutter to the top. The back of the beer gutter extends under the bar top as do the sides (slightly). This over lap area is where you apply glue, clamps and a few 1.25″ screws to secure the gutter board to the underside of the bar top. Be sure to pre-drill the screw holes so you don’t split the gutter board.
This post has received 1 vote up.looks simple enough…I’ll see what I can do. Toughest part would be the center notch cut (halved joint) for the cross supports and the apparent mortis and tenon when they meet the legs. Could use dowels for the mortis & tenon or even a pocket hole from below.
You’re right, it’s only one…not sure how that slipped by and you’re the first to report it. Thanks.
It has been corrected in the CHBD parts list.
The plans doc should read 1, not 2.Always better to have more than not enough.
Be sure you insulate under the floor too!
Honestly, the EHBP-01 is small and light enough to be slid around quite easily. If you really want casters, you can mount them up inside the base framing at the extreme edges. Depending on the side casters you use, you may or may not need a small 3/4″ mounting plate to help extend them down far enough. Remember too, casters will add to the height of the bar…if they extend an inch, it is suggested you trim the vertical support parts by 1 inch too.
[attachment=105]EHBP-01Casters.jpg[/attachment]
Note: The front foot rest gap is rather narrow for a 3″ caster, so either extend the base side frames to allow for a larger gap and use a 2×8 (or 1×8 hardwood if you prefer) for the foot rest top or use 2″ caster and use an offset plate (scrap 1×4 or similar) so they reach the floor.
sorry I missed your question, the mask is awesome!
1. Not sure exactly what you mean..
2. Glue? again,not really sure what you were looking at…hopefully your looking at a cold beer by now. Cheers!
Build two EHBP-04’s and lay one out in reverse. That will make your U configuration.
