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You should never, EVER, E V E R! assume the part is the correct size. you should ALWAYS “Measure Twice, Cut Once”. This is covered in the user guide, but of course, nobody ever reads that. The CHBD is a guide, not the end-all-be-all of resizing.
That said, many, many others have not experienced any problems.
Your inaccuracy could be due to improper use of the resizing tool. Can you provide any specific examples of these inaccuracies? On which plan did you see this issue?
I’ve had several similar reports, so rather than open a new ticket, here’s the answer: Yup, I know about the issue and I’m on my way over to the gallery to check it out. I know it’s due for a an upgrade and some major maintenance. Too many things going on as always!
Check out the gallery and also the growing number of photos on our facebook page at: http://www.facebook.com/EasyHomeBarPlans Don’t forget to “like” our page. Thanks!
It’s temporarily removed for revisions. Thinking of doing a complete redo of that plan to make it CHBD friendly. (it was designed well before the CHBD existed)
There are a few minor differences in the cut lists, particularly with sub items that are marked with a “letter”, like 9a or 9b.
Those are usually parts you can figure out with a little common sense.As far as material list prices, the ones on the assembly doc were posted years ago, while the CHBD is a bit more up to date. Prices are simply ballpark estimates (they vary often).
This is not a complicated design, so interpretation is relatively easy.
you should be ok doing that…sorry for the delay on the reply.
First off, Envirotex Lite is the product to use, and it will stick to metal. Be sure you have built up a “wall” all around the perimeter because envirotex stays liquid for a very log time.
I heat gun is fine, but a propane torch works better. Don’t worry, envirotex is not flammable.Typically no, you should stain everything once you have it fully assembled and the glue is dry and boards final sanded.
Many people have done this. In most cases (every kegerator is a little different) the tap tower is removed, them mounted to the bar top. The new gap between the tower and the units is closed using PVC drain pipe filled with spray foam insulation.
Alternately, you can notch the bar top and slide the unit right into place. See the builder’s gallery for examples, there are many.
Will the bar be in full sun? or are you building it in the shade?
Treated wood should be fine in the sun. Use Envirotex and it will repel moisture and UV. Search the forum for tons of info on Envirotex.
The EHBP-04 is not yet working with the CHBD. Just lengthen the base and top support parts for the main section. It’s not difficult at all.
I know a guy who can do 12′ cherry 5 1/2″ arm rail for $310 per 12 foot section, but it’s special order. Let me know if you are interested by opening a support ticket at: https://www.barplan.com/helpdesk
That’s a pretty small space for the bar. Is it possible to move the wall back 3 feet? That would make for a more comfortable bar area without taking too much away from the back room. Either way, I’d recommend cutting enough of the wall out to build a bookcase style bar back. Who knows, with a little ingenuity you could build your door as part of the bar back creating a secret doorway.
Another option is to build a normal height bar top support using the “wall method” – Then place shallow cabinets (24″) behind the bar. I’ll draw something up & be back later…
Here is a one other option, but it has it’s pros & cons…
Pros – allows for bar back space, requires no second door.Con – eliminates half your available seating…probably fits 4 or 5 stools.
Requires you to shorten main leg by about 40″.Because your room is so narrow, the bar back would have to be on one of the side walls, not the front wall…the back wall is possible if you could have a built in bar back that would extend into your back room by 12 to 16 inches and require you to knock out a section of wall.