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Power is run between the support uprights. Drill 3/4″ holes as needed 12″ or higher above floor level to reduce the risk of flooding shorting out your bar. Also good to keep it dry when the BS starts filling the bar. 😉
Decoupage is covered on this page: https://www.barplan.com/decoupage-bar-top-examples/
I think the original point was missed as this is discussing the workspace countertop height, NOT the bar top height.
42″ is standard bar top height.I think the original point was missed as this is discussing the workspace countertop height, NOT the bar top height.
42″ is standard bar top height.I think the original point was missed as this is discussing the workspace countertop height, NOT the bar top height.
42″ is standard bar top height.Great examples can be found in the gallery area:
Most recently, Maximuser’s project is a very good guide:
If you need further materials suggestions, please post your request.
A 45 degree cut will get you around a 90 degree corner since you split the difference. To get around a 45 degree corner, you split 45, which is 22.5 degrees.
It’s always best to do a few scrap cuts because all miter saws have their own “personality”.Carl:
Sorry, that project is not resizable using the CHBD. There are a couple of reasons why…
1. It’s designed to utilize mostly 8 foot lumber.
2. The standard size is stable, making it smaller would make it unstable, unless very well anchored.
3. Making it much larger exceeds the scope of the intended plan.
4. It’s a structure, not a bar per se.
5. CHBD was meant for just bar sizes, not structures with roofs.
6. CHBD READY plan sets show a little icon on the plan over pages that indicates if it is resizable or not.The CHBD is intended for making nominal changes to select bar designs for fitting purposes only. These changes can facilitate some very interesting configurations nonetheless. Manual changes to the EHBP-20 are possible. You can substitute a hip roof but the design work the gets more detailed.
I think there is a forum topic for modifying it to a hip roof rather than a gable design.Yes, you can simplify the bar top down to a single finish layer and use the MUCH easier to install 9801.
https://www.denoon.com/-9801-1-12-x-5-12-Chicago-Style-Bar-Rail-Maple-P336.aspx
If you could refer to page numbers in the plans to zero in on the section you are talking about, it would help.
Once you start modifying the center section width forget about using the CHBD. From that point on you’ll have to simple study the framing (it’s not that complex) and then decide on where you want to trim & tuck. There are no limits other than the obvious that would make it unstable.For securing it, just use 30 year silicone caulk. It has plenty of grab yet can still be peeled up if needed. In most cases, just the weight of the bar will hold it in place.
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Not a lot of info to go on, but a lift gate is very easy to build. The drop down gate is a little tougher to build because you have the latching mechanism and you must source the parts for those. Springs can be found at any hardware store. You will have to test it to be sure you get proper compression to be able to push the locking mechanism OUT with enough force, but not too much. Likewise, piano hinges are recommended.
To set the pressure for the locking mechanism, you can just affix a fine tuning blocking board to the top of the flip lock push panel to set the length in the up/lock position. You would place it approximately where you see the upper dark shadow in the image. You would place the door in the closed position, then attach the fine tuning block. You can bevel the top slightly for a smooth locking fit. A little furniture wax helps too for where the two wood surfaces meet.
I would recommend a 1×4 pine board. This gives you the perfect pressure without having to be exact on the push panel position.
Check out the Flapper Door page for piano hinge sources.