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A 45 degree cut will get you around a 90 degree corner since you split the difference. To get around a 45 degree corner, you split 45, which is 22.5 degrees.
It’s always best to do a few scrap cuts because all miter saws have their own “personality”.Carl:
Sorry, that project is not resizable using the CHBD. There are a couple of reasons why…
1. It’s designed to utilize mostly 8 foot lumber.
2. The standard size is stable, making it smaller would make it unstable, unless very well anchored.
3. Making it much larger exceeds the scope of the intended plan.
4. It’s a structure, not a bar per se.
5. CHBD was meant for just bar sizes, not structures with roofs.
6. CHBD READY plan sets show a little icon on the plan over pages that indicates if it is resizable or not.The CHBD is intended for making nominal changes to select bar designs for fitting purposes only. These changes can facilitate some very interesting configurations nonetheless. Manual changes to the EHBP-20 are possible. You can substitute a hip roof but the design work the gets more detailed.
I think there is a forum topic for modifying it to a hip roof rather than a gable design.Yes, you can simplify the bar top down to a single finish layer and use the MUCH easier to install 9801.
https://www.denoon.com/-9801-1-12-x-5-12-Chicago-Style-Bar-Rail-Maple-P336.aspx
If you could refer to page numbers in the plans to zero in on the section you are talking about, it would help.
Once you start modifying the center section width forget about using the CHBD. From that point on you’ll have to simple study the framing (it’s not that complex) and then decide on where you want to trim & tuck. There are no limits other than the obvious that would make it unstable.For securing it, just use 30 year silicone caulk. It has plenty of grab yet can still be peeled up if needed. In most cases, just the weight of the bar will hold it in place.
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Not a lot of info to go on, but a lift gate is very easy to build. The drop down gate is a little tougher to build because you have the latching mechanism and you must source the parts for those. Springs can be found at any hardware store. You will have to test it to be sure you get proper compression to be able to push the locking mechanism OUT with enough force, but not too much. Likewise, piano hinges are recommended.
To set the pressure for the locking mechanism, you can just affix a fine tuning blocking board to the top of the flip lock push panel to set the length in the up/lock position. You would place it approximately where you see the upper dark shadow in the image. You would place the door in the closed position, then attach the fine tuning block. You can bevel the top slightly for a smooth locking fit. A little furniture wax helps too for where the two wood surfaces meet.
I would recommend a 1×4 pine board. This gives you the perfect pressure without having to be exact on the push panel position.
Check out the Flapper Door page for piano hinge sources.
Never got much feedback on this…still considering it if there was a demand.
The octagon bar could be easily modified into a poker table.
Move the heater. It’s not wise to block heaters.
I know it’s a water system, but if you can cut it out and move / extend the lines I would do so.The only other option might be to box around it and redirect the heat out with a small 12vdc fan running on low…or create an opening at the top of the box to let warm air out and create a convection current…or even integrate the heat into the bar.
One last thought…just butt the short side to the wall and the overhang should still allow the heater vent to clear. Remove the foot rest on that side too. Do so by simply ommitting the foot rest parts. Study the plans and you’ll understand how to do this quite easily.
Refreshing post for recent question…please add any questions here regarding hip roof modification.
In the base framing, just trim off the foot rest supports flush with the front of the bar. See page 6 of the plans for a detail of the base framing.
You need to look at that part and determine if it is even needed for a section that small. In some cases there are two or more inline boards, usually within the base framing, that uses the same part number for two or more different parts that are positioned in line. If those two parts are originally 30″ each and you shrink the section from 60″ to 30″ or under, you basically eliminate one of the parts when it hits zero length, going further into negative territory means you need to examine what can be consolidated…or eliminated altogether.
There are probably more ideas for similar bar tops that use decoupage techniques with photos, concert tickets, bottle caps, corks, hockey pucks, baseball ball and bats, rocks, tile chips, you name it! All encased forever in Envirotex. http://www.barplan.com/gallery
Do a search on the forum for ENVIROTEX.As of 4/10/2016, Denoon is still the best deal on Chicago bar rail. The poplar species is only $6.95 / foot.
https://www.denoon.com/Bar-Rail-C42.aspxThis post has received 1 vote up.DeNoon is fast becoming one of the better manufacturers of bar arm rail.
The are down to about $6.95 for the poplar wood models. Poplar is a nice smooth grain wood that is easier to cut than oak, but not quite as hard.http://www.denoon.com/Bar-Rail-C42.aspx
Steve
This post has received 1 vote up.