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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 30 total)
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  • in reply to: Coronavirus Self Quarantine Tips #44483 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    November 16 / 2020 Still in quarantine. Can you believe this &#!t?

    in reply to: Refrigeration 101 – READ FIRST! #44482 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    If you are having problems with the DIY keg box cooling, here are a few tips…

    How often are you opening the door?
    Every time the door is open, you slow down the cooling process.

    Does your fridge have a freezer plate? how cold is that getting?
    Your target low temp is 36F. Upper low is 44.

    Are you measuring the temp using a wired or wireless remote?
    That eliminates the need to keep opening the door and slowing the cooling process.

    If you have a freezer plate that is below 32’F, then passing air over it will transfer heat away faster.
    You can use a few scrap heat sinks from an old PC CPU to increase surface area.

    My freezer plate gets down to 10’F and forms frost.
    If you have no frost on your freezer plate, you may have a clinker fridge.

    I’ll move this over to the forum.

    Cheers
    Steve

    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by bpwdmin.
    in reply to: Bar Rail #43631 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Detail of the corner unit angles.

    in reply to: Missing Parts in Cut List #43630 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    I’ll take a look at that…thanks

    in reply to: Base Layer Measurements and over hang #40295 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Due to another question posted today, I figured I’d include the following pic showing the finished overhang dimensions of each side. One is 6 1/2″ the other is 6 7/16″. a difference of 1/16″

    in reply to: Base Layer Measurements and over hang #38893 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Regarding question #1: Do not flush the back edge of part 72 with part 75. Just set the front overhang of part 75 to 6″ as shown on page 21.
    If you look very closely on page 20, you do not see the edge of the base support part 72. The edge gap between 72 and 75 on the bartender side is 2.5″. The base layer overhang on the front (6″) an sides (3″) is all you need to worry about.
    2.5″+9.5″+6″=18″ which is the width or the base layer sheet (part 75).

    in reply to: Reversing the plan #38638 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Here is the reverse of the base layout…see attachment. Hope that helps a little.

    in reply to: Bar Rail #38636 Score: 1
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Here’s another source for inexpensive home bar rail, Baird Brothers: https://www.bairdbrothers.com/1-34-x-5-14-Poplar-Bar-Top-Rail-B005-P1968.aspx
    To save money, you can order it in random lengths then splice the sections…or order in the exact lengths you need.
    All Bar Top Rails: https://www.bairdbrothers.com/Bar-Top-Rails-C29.aspx

    This post has received 1 vote up.
    • This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by sam2014.
    • This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by bpwdmin.
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    I can’t show you exactly, but I would simply add the end framing of the C section to the end of the B section. Those boards are needed for bar top support.
    OR, rather than add them, just modify the end of the B section as you would have done with the standard C section. So the end upright on the B section that is part #9, would become part #48 from the C section. The rest should follow easily.

    This post has received 1 vote up.
    in reply to: Incorrect CHBD measurements? #37379 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    The CHBD is more for framing….so if you run across a sheeting error, just pull out the tape measure and adjust as needed. I have found it’s not perfect and has some strange output when making things smaller…that being parts that go to zero size….but, if that happens, it means you went so small that the part is no longer required.

    in reply to: Bar Arm Rail Moulding Sources #37369 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts
    in reply to: Alternative to Rockler & Kegwork Arm Rail #37368 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Someone mentioned that denoon does not ship to Canada… Try these guys instead: http://www.hardwoodsincorporated.com/product/br-475-bar-rail/

    in reply to: What does WP stand for in the section part list? #37365 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    The WP designations of X, Y, Z and none simply means the part is oriented along one of three axis and one null axis, named none.

    Be careful using the CHBD as it can be confusing. The entire world is defined in the Cartesian coordinate system x, Y and Z. See attached drawing.

    in reply to: Lift Gate Instructions #37351 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    I think if you go to the gallery and search on “lift” or “gate” or “flapper” you might find some more examples with detail photos.
    It’s really rather simple. https://www.barplan.com/gallery

    in reply to: Workspace Counter Top Height #37342 Score: 0
    sam2014
    Participant
    3 pts

    Considering the height of the bar is 42″ – a 36″ high workspace counter gives you under 6″ of clearance. You can certainly do it, but you won’t fit a sink in that space. My workspace is 30″ and I’m 6’4″. Never felt too low.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 30 total)