- This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 1 month ago by Anonymous.
August 11, 2010 at 10:03 pm #19228
My mini fridge seems to run constantly and the condenser is always hot but the coils remain normal. I can place my hand on the condensor for about 5-10 seconds before having to remove. I have 1 good sized AC fan blowing on it. The kegbox holds fairly consistent at 36 degrees. I’ve only had it running for about a week now but I’m concerned I might burn up the fridge. Anyone who’s built one of these would appreciate not having to take it apart to replace a fridge.
1) Is it normal for the condenser to stay hot?
2) Should I use one of those temperature regulators to make sure it shuts off? Or will this only cause the fridge to turn on and off every couple of minutes?
Thanks in advance!August 20, 2010 at 1:19 am #20467Anonymous
The compressor can get so hot you can’t touch it. This is pretty much normal when the fridge is running 100% duty cycle, but it shouldn’t be running 100%. When the compressor gets this hot, it begins warming the whole fridge box and a vicious cycle begins. You need to dump more heat from the back of the fridge.
. Here’s a few suggestions:
1. Add a fan to the rear of the fridge blowing across the compressor and coils. Don’t point the fan directly AT the back of the fridge because this will blow the warm air towards the cold side of the system. Try to blow it away if possible. Mine is mounted on a bracket and blows away, sucking cooler air behind the fridge and dumping the excess heat.
This alone should solve your problem.
2. If you haven’t already done so, add a fan to the INSIDE of the keg box to circulate air. This dramatically improves the system performance.
3. Seal all leaks! Be sure you check around the door and seal with foam rubber weather stripping.
4. You did insulate the floor, right?. If you didn’t (a common mistake) then you need to shut everything down, get the box back to room temp and then drill a bunch of 1/4″ holes in the floor, them pump in about 5 or 6 cans of expanding foam insulation (Great Stuff brand or similar), then cover the floor with a thin aluminum sheet. You can fabricate custom edges & corners around the keg box door frame using thin aluminum and foam too. This helps create a tighter seal around the door perimeter.
Let us know if this helps.
Thanks & Have Fun!August 20, 2010 at 4:21 pm #20470
Thanks for the reply:
I’ve done everything you addressed.
Positioning a fan on the back is tricky because there isn’t much room. I have 2-small computer fans tucked in to blow air out and one 10″ 110 fan blowing at an angle towards the compressor to keep the air moving and try and help the small computer fans.
It seems to be doing ok and the fridged seems to be cycling however I am a rookie keg guy.
So let me ask you this to see if it’s ok.
My thermometer records the highest and lowest temps. I have reset it everyday for about a week and a half now and the temp range is between 35.1 and 38.8. Beer tasts fine and just the right amount and texture of head that I like. Is this temp range ok for keeping beer for 2-3 months or will that constant fluctuation be a problem?
ThanksSeptember 3, 2010 at 8:30 am #20474Anonymous
That temp range is fine. If it gets colder than that, turn up the thermostat a bit. That should make your compressor work a bit less. What you will find is that initially it may take a day or two for the temp to stabilize. As you dump more heat, the fridge should cycle less and less. I know it’s hard, but don’t peek inside. Every time you open the door you introduce more work for the compressor to remove that heat. Keep your CO2 tank OUTSIDE the fridge. This way you can make pressure adjustments without making your fridge work harder than it has to.
Remember, if you have frost on the fridges freezer plate, then your fridge is working fine. Then getting your beer cold is a matter of air circulation inside and outside the keg box. Sounds like you are on the right track.
Enjoy your draft beer!
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