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There are many ways to hinge & latch the keg box door, problem is, products come and go so over time you may need to source keg box hinges and latches from new suppliers.
The approved & tested Easy Mount Pin Hinge appears to be discontinued. However, I am talking with Rockler to see if they will bring it back.
International tool has the same hinge in stock, but I’ve never purchased from them.
Here’s the link: http://www.internationaltool.com/Hinges/26955.aspxI see Rockler now has a more expensive 30 lb torsion hinge that might also work nicely, but require you to inset the door panel.
Here’s the link for that :
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21288&sid=AF523Looks like the pin hinges at International Tool are discontinued as well.
Any other ideas on what kind of hinge to use? I’d like something that’s self closing, but it seems that every hinge out there assumes the inside of the door is flat. Which of course, the insulated keg door is not. So, that severly limits your options…
Thanks…
I’ve been searching high & low for a replacement hinge and I think this might be the best candidate:
http://www.amerock.com/products/item-2072/selfclosing-partial-wrap-12-overlay
The 1/2 overlay allows for the keg box seal overlap.
It’s self closing too!It seems to readily available, see the dealer locator:
http://www.amerock.com/dealer-locator/Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace, Meijer, even Bed Bath & Beyond!
I ordered the ice box hardware set and screws from D. Lawless Hardware (SKU I15-B300-2L and SCR758OPHBP) and they are going to work out perfectly! The hinges and latch are offset 3/8″ and attach outside the door frame. Also, it took only 2 days to get the hardware (I live in Illnois and they are based in Illinois). Thanks to the builder that posted their internet link.
The hinge you suggested works, but it takes some minor modifications to the door. I had to miter the hinge into the door face so that it would fit under the oak trim without lifting it. The overlay on that hinge just isn’t enough to get the seal you’d need around the inside edge of the door. This hinge works great, once you miter it in place, but removing it later will be impossible. You can see I screwed the 2 screws in place, and then glued the 1 x 4 oak on top of the door. So, those 2 screws are there permanently! But I don’t really see a need to remove it later (famous last words), so it shouldn’t be a problem. I did end up drilling holes in the flat surface of the hinge and put 1.5″ screws through my plywood face and into the 2 x 4 frame behind it. I just didn’t trust the little 1/2″ screws that came with this set to support the weight of the keg door. So, I would probably use the same hinge style as this with the surface mounts instead of this one with the edge wrap if I could do it all over again. But when the door is closed, nobody can see the extra screws I drilled into it. They are covered by the 1 x 4 oak. I would have used this instead:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=26591So, that’s what I needed to do to make this hinge work on the keg door. Hope that helps someone else.
Bill.
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Looking for hinges and latch for my kegbox. All these posts are old.
I didn’t use hinges at all!
The door was made to fit very snugly, (I made it 1/8″ smaller than the door opening which gives you a mere 1/16th on each side, it would never swing closed with this tight clearance!) then weather stripped around the edges with foam rubber.I then used common window latches that you can find at you hardware store on the middle of the left and right sides. Once the latches are secure, they compress the foam and seal that baby TIGHT! I never open it again until the tap spits and it’s time to change it out for a fresh barrel.
I installed two handles on the door to assist removal. It needs a good tug to open once it’s been sealed for a few weeks. Removing the whole door is great and gives me the max width opening to maneuver that beast in.
This also helps reduce the amount of frost that forms when people keep “checking” to see if the kegs still there…lol I even threw a container of Damp Rid in there to soak up any excess moisture in the air.
The CO2 and regulator MUST stay outside the box. I used a cheap, wired temp sensor and it hangs a few inches from the top of the keg box, right in the fan breeze. That assures a good mixed air reading. The display is mounted up by the tap. Mine stays about 35F and is set to about 50% duty.
Pictures of the window latches? I’ve been trying to fix this issue for a LONG time. Can’t find anything that looks appropriate. Thanks!
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