Keg Box Door & Insulation Questions…

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    Anonymous

    The following series of questions was from a recent support ticket. I’m sharing with everyone here, Jason makes several good points which might help someone else.



    Sun, Feb 24 2008 10:59am
    I am trying to build the door for the L-Keggar. I modified the plans to allow for a double keg box and I having trouble figuring out from the original plans how big the door opening should be. Can you help?

    Also, I see that you spec’d out a styrofoam core for the keg door. Can I just use left over ProPink insulation instead?



    Sun, Feb 24 2008 12:20pm – Barplan Admin
    Hello Jason.
    On page 38 of the L-shaped plans, Item 71 is 24″ wide, so the opening must be slightly larger than 24″. One page 39, item 73 is shown as 26″. So the opening should be less than 26″.
    Finally, on page 31 you will see item 87, which is 31.5″. If you simply subtract the width or parts 88 and 89 (3.5″ each), you should come up with 24.5″, which is the width of the keg box door opening.

    If you are modifying the door opening, you should do so witl all these parts considered.

    Regarding the door filler, yes, by all means, you may use Pro Pink or any other insulation material. Be sure to first fill the corners and edges with spray foam. All air pockets in the door should be filled with foam. You could use all spray foam, but it’s cheaper to fill the large areas with styro or pro pink.

    I will move this ticket over to the builder’s forum under the Keg Box construction topic. It may already have been answered there.

    Cheers!
    Steve



    Sun, Feb 24 2008 1:53pm
    Thanks for the reply. Also on Page 40 of these plans, it says the Aluminum Sheet should be a little smaller than 28.5″ X 17.75″. I can’t understand why this would be the sizing of the aluminum sheet. Isn’t the sheet meant to cover the entire box frame? In this case, why wouldn’t the size of the aluminum sheet be more like the 24″ X 31.5″ that is the size of the Item 70 on Page 38?



    Sun, Feb 24 2008 4:30pm – Barplan Admin
    Jason:

    You are correct. That should actually read: “Aluminum sheet should measure 1/16 shy of the inner frame size (24″ X 31.5″) to prevent any metal from dragging on the door opening.”

    This portion of the document was cut n pasted from the 8 foot straight kegger bar plans doc which has a smaller keg box door, hence the smaller dimensions. Must have slipped past me.

    I’m suprised nobody has pointed that out yet!
    I’ll change it in the doc.

    Thanks!
    Steve


    Sun, Feb 24 2008 7:35pm
    Thanks alot. Your prompt responses are very helpful. I am going to start building the door tommorrow. I have two more questions (that’s what you get for being so helpful!)

    1. You call for the Keg Box Door Panel to be 3/8″ Oak (Item 70 on Page 38). I don’t see anywhere else in the plans (including the Materials List) that 3/8″ Oak is called for. Do you mean 3/4″ Oak Plywood? Can I use 1/2″ Plywood?

    2. I need to increase the size of the keg box for the second keg and I am having trouble visualizing how the insulation sheets should come together. From the plans it seems like none of the insulation sheets actually touch each other–they are all separated by 2X4s. Is this correct? If so do the 2 X 4s need to be covered with the insulating foam?

    Thanks again!



    Sun, Feb 24 2008 10:13pm – Barplan Admin
    1. yes, oak plywood, which is oak veneer. I would stick with 3/8″ thick, it is common in most lumber yards.

    2. The bottom line is to use common sense. The more insulation, the better.
    Don’t be too concerned with following the plan to a “T”, just be sure you have NO air gaps anywhere. On my keg box, if I had exposed 2×4, I just custom cut a piece of ProPink and glued it in place over the 2×4, overlapping onto adjacent pro pink panels. Corners can be filled with extra scrap pieces too. I use expanding spray foam as the “glue”. Apply a bead to contact areas, then hold in place with some duct tape until dry. I then applied more spary foam to all seams both inside and outside the keg box.

    To go even one step futher, you can custom cut more aluminum sheet and line the inside of your keg box, covering all the pro pink panels. Again, use spray foam as the adhesive to hol dthe aluminum sheet directly to the pro pink panels. Use lots of foam! If it squeezes out around the edges (it should) just wait until it dries, then trim the excess spray foam (now dry) with a razor blade.

    My keg box holds about 33-35 F temp and has been running non stop since 2004 without a problem. Be sure you use circulation fans!

    I will now move this series of Q & A to the Builders Forum under Keg Box construction. Please continue there if you have more questions. That way we help can others with the same question.

    Thanks!
    Steve

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