Keg Box Floor & Door Fitting

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  • #19433 Score: 0

    I received this questions today regarding the keg box door fitting.
    In a nutshell it addresses the fact that the keg box floor panel is not shown in the drawings. The should be a note on page 11 to instruct you to measure and cut the keg box floor panel to fit, but not to install it until the space below it is fully insulated. Read on…

    Good morning, looking for help ASAP. I followed the plans to a T when it came to the keg area. I started building the door last night when I noticed that the door could not possibly shut and seal do to the design. At the back of the bar trim layout drawing, looking at #87, #88 & #89, the door would shut flush with the face of these boards. The bottom of the door however has nothing flush to seal against, the 2×4 frame that’s on the floor sticks out further than the listed trim boards above. I see this shown as well in your drawings. I looked at builders photos and can’t find any that show what might have been done here. Has this ever been brought up? Thanks for your help!! Phil

    The door basically sits atop the base frame 2×4 (part #11), so no, it is not flush with that, but it should ride about 1/16 above it.

    I think I see the problem:
    You need to add a 3/4″ thick plywood floor panel (which is not shown in the drawings due to the fact that everyone was forgetting to install the insulation panels under the keg box) to the keg box AFTER the space under the floor panel is fully insulated, because you certainly can not place a heavy keg box directly on foam.

    Even then there is a gap between the keg box floor panel and the bottom inner face of the keg box door, but the solution is very simple.

    Just cut a strip of hardwood oak (from 1×2 stock, it may need to be ripped to size) to fit that space. It also acts as hardened threshold at the bottom front of the keg box. Hauling heavy kegs in and out drags on that edge and plywood won’t last long. Making it an edge piece means it could be replaced someday if it ever gets too dinged up. Once it is in place, there is ample overlap for the door bottom.
    Be sure to use a foam seam all around the inner edge of the door.

    There needs to be a note on page 11 of the plans to explain why the floor panel is not shown or installed yet.

    Thanks for the feedback…I’ll clarify this issue on the next plans rev.

    Let me know if I can be of further help.

    #20327 Score: 0

    Thanks for the quick response, I can see this working now. Thanks again and keep up the good work!! :D

    #20420 Score: 0
    2 pts

    Just an FYI regarding door fitting and hinging.
    When using hinges, to open and close properly, you’ll have to trim the latch side inner frame so it clears the hinge side door frame. Add to that the discontinuation of the Rockler pin hinges (which helped allow for this door swing) and we’ve got a small problem…there’s and easy fix though.

    As designed, the inner door frame is only 1/8″ smaller than the door frame. So, many builder’s just forget the hinges altogether and used opposing latches to secure the door tightly in place, like a service hatch.

    There’s no need for going in and out of your keg box, except when you change out the keg or defrost, so keep it simple. Be sure to install a small hardwood lip to support the bottom outside of the door frame to align it properly, then two opposing window latches (or similar) hold the left and right side of the door tightly closed. Simple solutions are best!

    #21133 Score: 0

    Pictures? I’m having a hard time seeing this. And I’ve been having the same issue. Thanks!

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