Kegger Bar Plans – What you will need…

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  • #19398 Score: 0
    Anonymous

    The Kegger Bar Plans for the straight bar contain much of the details for
    building your keg box. The L-shaped plan simply re-uses much of what is found in the straight design. Be sure you check out the “How to Build You Keg Box” page at https://www.barplan.com/members/page/kegkooler.htm.

    For those who are interested in this plan, here is a list of items you will need for the Keg Box and Tapper System.

    1. A small “dorm” style fridge. the plans are built using a 2.7
    cubic foot Sanyo model I picked up at Best Buy for about
    $100. They can be purchased for as low as $89. Check
    Walmart, the have a Haier 2.7 cu. ft., model No.
    HSP03WNAWW for $98.74. That’s perfect for our needs.

    2. The tapper system. Kegworks sell a complete fridge
    conversion kit for about $228.95. Always select the Sankey
    coupler wihich fits all US flavors of beer.

    So, the equipment alone so far is going to run you about $350.

    Still better than the $600 + for a kegerator.

    Plus, you will have a bar to go with it! and the fridge will have
    enough spare space for leftover cold pizza and soda.

    The overview of the project will be to build a well insulated
    keg box, using 2 layers of 3/4″ plywood separated with 1.5″ of
    panel foam insulation sandwiched with HD aluminum foil. Use
    Great Stuff expanding foam to seal ALL open spaces.
    Insulation must be included above and below the keg box.

    Remember, the principle of refridgeration is NOT to just make
    things cold. It is to take HEAT AWAY, thus making them cold.

    So, we must be sure heat can not get into the keg box. This
    includes al wavelengths of heat like infrared sources. That’s
    why we use 2 layers of HD aluminum foil, each layer with the
    shiny side out. The whole key to this working well is doing a
    good insulation job. Then seal all seams with 30 year white
    caulk and paint with white washable high gloss latex enamel.

    One side of the keg box will allow your 2.7 cu ft fridge to be
    inserted door side in, to the keg box. Of course you need to
    remove the door, but that is very easy to do by removing 4
    screws. Keep the screws, hinges and door together in case
    you ever want to use it for a fridge again.

    This way, you won’t be trashing out or gutting out your fridge
    to get at the compressor. Everything stays intact and in
    working condition. All you are really doing in making the “box”
    area larger with the new keg box. Since the door will always
    be closed, the small compressor will be able to remove all the
    heat from the keg box.

    This text will show up several times on the site and a
    separate document will cover the Keg Box, which you will be
    able to add to any existing Easy Home Bar Project.

    Stay tuned!

    Edited By admin on 1109462845

    #19584 Score: 0
    Anonymous

    Refridgerator Turbo Charger!

    Just one more item you will need to scavange for the Kegger
    Bar / Keg Box project which acts as a TurboCharger for your
    2.7 cu ft compact fridge…

    It’s a PC (yes Personal Computer) Power Supply!

    I have about 5 old PC’s lying around and the switching power
    suppy make a great cooling fan power supply, here’s how it
    works.

    But a cheap 80mm PC case cooling far from
    Tiger Direct or you may have one in an old PC.

    The cooling fan can be placed in front of the freezer tray to
    circulate air over the plate and create airflow inside the keg
    box. Tiger also sells a fan controller for 8 bucks that is a
    speed control based on temperature. Just tape the
    thermostat on the high pressure line just before the heat
    exchanger on the back of the fridge or for a cheaper
    alternative, just but a lamp timer and set it to run an hour,
    the off and hour etc…

    The PC supply is overkill, but if you have an old computer that
    has lived out it’s useful life, you cam clean it up and give it a
    new job!

    Oh, one more thing, place the PC supply’s cooling fan exhaust
    so it points towards the fridges compressor. This will help
    take away more heat from the back of the fridge, which is
    what you want to do to increase cooling.

    So, you have the power supply’s fan blowing on the
    comprssor & rear radiator and the 80mm case fan mounted
    inside the keg box pointed directly on the freezer plate.

    It’s just like a turbo charger!

    Most commercial fridges have some kind of circulation fan
    inside.

    Keep in mind, you can use any type of power supply to power
    the internal fan, it’s just that this is a good way to use parts
    that may wind up in the trash otherwise.

    Feel free to add you ideas!
    Steve

    Edited By admin on 1109779563

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