Type of Fridge Does Matter!

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  • #19391 Score: 0

    Became a member of this site probably 2 1/2 years ago as I knew I wanted to build a bar. To make a long story short the L-shaped kegger bar plans were not yet posted so I combined the regular L-shape bar plans with the straight kegger bar plans and modified my bar as I progressed slowly along. My bar project has been an off again on again project due to other major house projects and having another kid. Anyways, I finally got to finishing the kegger box and door and tested it.

    I swear two years ago when I printed off the kegger plans that the disclaimer on the download page about what type of fridge to buy was not there. If it was then my wife is right and I am an idiot. Anyways I ended up buying a Sanyo with the flat back. My first try only got the box down to 36 degrees. I then visited the forums to get some advice and read about the pc power supply and fans. I had frost build up on the freezer plate so I thought maybe this would be the trick but a pc power supply and 3 fans later no dice. These additions brought the temp down to 33.5. So I decided I needed to yank out the flat back and replace it with a coil back fridge. Went to Wal-mart and purchased the Haier 2.7 cubic foot model with the coils on the back.

    The difference is amazing. With the fridge on the coldest setting my kegger box is now down to 16 degrees!!! Very happy with that knowing that I can keep the fridge on a medium setting and keep the beer temp where I want it.

    With the new fridge I did need to make some modifications to fit in the bar. Wasn’t a big deal but if I would have known the proper fridge to buy I would have saved myself $100 and 2 hours of my time. Live and learn.

    But the bottom line is that it is CRITICAL to buy a fridge with the coils in the back!!!!!!!!!!!!

    #20175 Score: 0

    Whoa Mamma!

    What are you trying to do, store beef in there? 😆
    The proper temp for tap beer is about 34 to 36 (lager) and a bit warmer for craft beers. 38 is just about right. In the UK, they drink it room temp.

    While I do like my beer a bit colder, about 35, 16 degrees F is way too cold.

    I always say, if your fridge’s freezer plate makes frost, you’re OK.
    It then becomes a matter of pushing air around.

    I would agree though, the best type of fridge is the open coil style.
    It’s hard to make model recommendations, since they seem to change models often. Shop around.

    #20177 Score: 0

    I was just so happy that I was able to get the temp down that low on the coldest setting. this was after screwing around for a week with my original set up. I have the new fridge on a medium setting and it is holding at 34 degrees, this is with a keg in it. Don’t worry, I don’t want frozen beer!

    #20178 Score: 0

    Yeah, it’s always good to know you’ve got some cooling overhead.
    Another good test is to set it low, then see when it turns off, then time it between cycles. This should indicate how well your box is insulated.

    Enjoy your coldies!

    #20495 Score: 0

    I buildt my own insulated box and it seems like it’s sealed and insulated well compared to a normal refrigerator. However, I know very little about refrigeration, so my question is this. Can I simply gut a mini-fridge and put the cooling unit inside my insulated box and have the compressor and condensor mounted outside of the box? Does the mini fridge enclosure serve some kind of purpose for defrosting or something? I gutted an old fridge without injuring any wiring or pressure lines and would simply like to install this unit to my fridge. Can this work?

    If anyone could educate me, I’d appreciate it.

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