April 12, 2012 at 2:22 am #19452
I am thinking about laying a piece of stainless steel down then as the bar top finish but will epoxy stick to that if I wanted to lay something down on top of the stainless and protect it as if it were just wood and then me applying epoxy? (I.e. sports memorabilia)? Also what would people recommend for staining the bar a dark black what type of finishing wood? Both for the front of the bar and the trim. 🙄April 12, 2012 at 8:01 am #20851
It says it works on:
Wood – Sea Shells – Painted Surfaces
Paper – Dried Flowers – Transfers
Decals – Beans – Seeds
Oil Paints – Bread Dough – Figurines
Pine Cones – Straw Flowers – Styrofoam
Rocks – Metal – Plaster
Bisque – Models – Fabric
…so I think you’ll be OK.
I would be sure you leave a slight gap around the edge of the metal so it can flow around the edges to prevent nervous fingers from starting to peel it back.
It would look cool over diamond plate too!
You essentially want to submerge the metal completely in the epoxy.
See the bonus download area for the instruction sheet for Envirotex.
https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_category/4-bonus-downloadsApril 12, 2012 at 8:48 am #20852
Thank you so much for the quick response and tips. I am going to give it a shot. Just has to figure out how to get these tickets and such to stay put on the stainless sheet and now bubble up from the epoxy!!April 12, 2012 at 5:58 pm #20853
Just use a glue stick or hot glue gun to hold them in place. Once you pour the E-tex, it will stay “liquid” for quite some time. Be sure you have a small “wall” all the way around the bar top to contain it. Otherwise it could all drip of the floor. Be sure to read that instruction sheet several times to understand it full.
It sounds crazy, but you use a propane torch to get the bubbles out. Envirotex is not flammable at all. It’s self leveling and it’s pretty cool watching it smooth out. Once it sets up, it will be as smooth and flat as glass. It will also take a long time before it’s fully cured. Mine took almost 3 month or more before it got hard as glass. In the mean time, it will seem hard, but if you set a beer mug on it, the mug will leave a dent impression. Remove the mug and in a day or so, the dent is gone. So don’t freak out if that happens to you. 😉May 9, 2012 at 6:36 pm #20899
Thank you. I am so afraid of trying stainless – you are the only one that says it will work everyone else is telling me no. Any other suggestions ? Currently I just have a regular plywood top – i am going to stain it with an ebony stain and then I want to put the tickets on and protect the top of the bar..May 11, 2012 at 8:11 pm #20901
There’s nothing to be afraid of…the data sheet says it sticks to metal and paper so you’re covered on both.
You will not have any problems with the tickets stubs moving around. Once you pour it on, it’s the consistency of thick oil for quite a long time.
During that time you can uses a toothpick to push down any corners and work any bubbles out. The bubbles actually work themselves out, and the propane torch method works great.
This has been done many times at commercial bars. There’s really no trick to it….just jump in and do it!
[bs:21vat5mn][/bs:21vat5mn]May 12, 2012 at 4:23 am #20902
Have to agree with Sam based on the data sheet but if your REALLY worried, give them a call and ask the mfg: (707) 443-9323June 16, 2013 at 8:08 pm #20354
So, how did this work out? Has anyone used Evitrox to put a seal layer over marble, granite or porcelain tiles? I have had some tiles on other project surfaces end up with cup ring stains/marring due to acidic contents. Wine can stain marble and granite too. This might even seal the grout to prevent stains. Anyone try this? Thanks…June 23, 2013 at 6:38 pm #20429bartender_adm2 pts
It should work fine on marble and grout. See the list of materials in Moose’s post.
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