Kegerator

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #19488 Score: 0
    Anonymous

      Question – why not just buy a kegerator instead of bothering with the fridge, building, insulating?

      #20702 Score: 0
      mckdelbu
        4 pts

        it’s a bit cheaper, especially if you already have an old compact fridge lying around.
        If you prefer the store bought unit, that works too.

        #20736 Score: 0

        Now I am going to go with the store bought version (just because a local store has one on sale for $299 :) . ) I do see in some members photos that have store bought Kegerators but they still have the tap out of the top of the bar instead of out of the kegerator. How do they do that? Is it a special connection pieces. Sorry if it is a stupid question.

        Thank you in advance for your input
        Josh

        #20749 Score: 0
        mckdelbu
          4 pts

          You can remove the tap tower, drill an opening, then reconnect the tower.
          It’ll take a little bit of fudging, but you’ll have to raise or lower the kegerator to get it to fit. For really tall units, some people have just notched out the base to get the extra space. I think there are some photos in the gallery of just such a case. Let me know if you need those pics.

          #20756 Score: 0

          Installing a Sanyo 1206 kegerator in the center of the straight bar. I am staying with the installed tower as opposed to moving it to the top of the bar. I like my beer COLD and by running extra line and moving the tower, you lose the tower cooling. Also, I don’t think fridge installation in the kegerator plans will keep the beer cold(enough for me!) Maybe someone who’s built one can provide some feedback….

          #20757 Score: 0
          mckdelbu
            4 pts

            Whatever lines you run external to a keg box or kegerator should be OPEN INSULATED lines…what does that mean?

            It means you run 1.5″ or 2″ PVC drain type pipe between the box and tower that is open to allow air to flow from the keg box up to the tower.
            The beer line is run in this enclosed “open” cold air space. The outside of the PVC is then well insulated with several layers of foil clad insulation.

            This is done so you always have cold beer right up to the tap – some take the cheap route and just insulated the beer tubing, but that’s not recommended.

            You can see this in detail in the EHBP-03 plan drawings, page 26 – Tapper Location & Assembly Considerations.

            #20914 Score: 0

            Hey Sam, could you send me some pics for what the man is talking about…I’m dealing with the same problem. I am adding a mini fridge at 33 inches high, and I would also like to add a Kegerator as well (store bought 33inches). Thank you Sir

            #21019 Score: 0

            I would like these pictures as well.

            Thanks

            #21038 Score: 0

            https://www.barplan.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=569

            See the photo by “braxton” with the Busch kegerator. He just used pipe insulation which is also fine.

          Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
          • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
          Easy Home Bar Plans