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I’m just about ready to commence construction and have a few questions and ideas to throw out. My plan is to build the 8′ kegger bar with a wet sink and a few modifications. I’m thinking of utilizing a laminate surface for the bar top and service counter underneath where I want to install the wet sink. I can purchase a stock 8′ post form countertop with a drip edge(rounded lip on the edge that will prevent spills from running off the surface) from Home Depot or Lowes for short money, and then build the actual bar top using the identical laminate from scratch using the contact adhesive/router method. I would like the bar top to have a flush edge instead of the traditional elbow rests (rounded molding) to create a surface that would almost look like a kitchen island top. I thought I saw a project in the builder’s gallery that looked like a laminate surface was used, and it looked sharp! Has anyone done this and is it difficult? My intent was to install the beer tower on the lower service counter to free up some space on the upper level top. By keeping the tower that much closer to kegger box, the beer in the line going into the tower would be colder, I guess. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
I’m still undecided about purchasing a “kegerater” versus building the “keg box”. A friend of mine at work recently completed a custom bar and incorporated a Danby Kegerater into the bar design, fitting it into a bay built into the bar. I asked her about ventilation for the compressor, and she told me that the unit needed around 3-4″ of space around it for adequate ventilation. I’m assuming that most or all of the other makes and models require similar clearances for proper ventilation. The unit fits under a lower counter and the tap tower is fastened to the surface of the counter, with the beer line running up and through the counter. The only problem that she mentioned is at the start of the first pour, there is a lot of foam until the glass is about half-full, then it clears and pours fine.
Is that because the tower is not attached to kegerater and the beer is warm ? Just another thing to ponder in my decision making process.I’ve read a few recent posts regarding the type of fridge to use in the keg box. I have a brand new Sanyo 2.7 cf mini fridge that works great, but it is of the “enclosed coils” type. Does it make any difference if the fridge has exposed coils or not? As long as each type has proper ventilation, won’t either type be adequate? In addition, instead of using a pc power supply to supply ventilation, is it possible to wire up a fan using the fridges own power ; the fan would cycle on and off with the fridge. Or would a better solution be using a 12v DC converter hooked up to some kind of electronic timer, so the fan(s) would cycle independent of the fridge? So much to think about; I’m starting to get thirsty!!!
I was looking at kegeraters online last week and found something interesting. Has anyone heard of the SUDSBUDDY??? I’ts a keg cooler that utililizes thermoelectric cooling units to chill the keg. No compressor or coils. Just an electronic cooling unit in the back. It is something that I will consider. I’ts a little pricey (around $850) . But it is portable and looks like it would last a while. Check out the web site. Perhaps using some sort of thermoelectric cooling unit could be an alternative to using a mini fridge to cool the “Keg Box”. Thanks to all for any suggestions. Have a safe and happy holiday season. Cheers Y’all
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