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do you want to build the DIY keg box or use a store bought Kegerator unit?
Envirotex Lite, do a search in this forma and you’ll find tons of info, the instructions for Envirotex are also located in the download area.
https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadindex/view_document/18-envirotex-instructions
It should work fine on marble and grout. See the list of materials in Moose’s post.
I like this one >
http://www.kennedyhardware.com/cast-brass-offset-ice-box-hinge.htmlThere are no current projects that look like that.
All current project core design are show at https://www.barplan.com/homebarplans
There may be some variations that come close to that (trimmed 45 top only) but not the bar body itself. You’d have to mod it yourself using the standard framing as a guide.BTW – You’d find photos in the gallery, not the forum.
Where did you – “read where you said you have some detailed pics on the builders forum but cannot find them.” ?
This is an advanced project that requires some modification on your part.
See the Builder’s Gallery for photos of how others have framed theirs.The only trick to combining the bar with the bar back is deciding how you want to align the two.
Typically you trim the wall end of the bar flush, removing any over hang.
Next Build the Bar Back and slide it in place. That’s it!
The other option is a bit more complicated and involved building a longer Bar Back using the CHBD, then butting the trimmed bar end to the bar back.
You would have to extend the bar facing sheeting to patch the gap between the bar and the bar back.
If you have questions, post them here.
I guess just omit section A of the EHBP-09 project.
That wouldn’t give you an 8 foot straight bar though. It would be about an 8 foot straight section with a 45 degree corner and small L section.If you want a similar project to the EHBP-01 with the same features as the EHBP-09, then try the EHBP-03 and skip the kegerator portion if you dont need it. That would be my choice.
the plan is at:
https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_document/1-easy-to-build-bar-plans/5-ehbp-03-kegger-barThe 3d model preview is on the sales pages at:
https://www.barplan.com/homebarplans/EHBP-03_oakkeggerbar.htmHere’s great video from Hardwood USA showing how to cut and mount Chicago style arm rail molding. It’s generic and your edge lip size will vary depending upon the type rail you purchase.
Three other items were corrected to today
Items 66, 62 and 43
all angled boards. I’m surprised nobody caught these up until today. The CHBD has been updated. Thanks Herb for the good eye.
Steve was probably tired and used the wrong measurement mode (ortho) when making a parallel dimension. Back then the poor guy did it all.
I am in the process of going from front to back and re-proof reading and verifying all measurements. Once verified, those docs will receive an ISBN number and be published on Amazon S3.
Just an FYI regarding door fitting and hinging.
When using hinges, to open and close properly, you’ll have to trim the latch side inner frame so it clears the hinge side door frame. Add to that the discontinuation of the Rockler pin hinges (which helped allow for this door swing) and we’ve got a small problem…there’s and easy fix though.As designed, the inner door frame is only 1/8″ smaller than the door frame. So, many builder’s just forget the hinges altogether and used opposing latches to secure the door tightly in place, like a service hatch.
There’s no need for going in and out of your keg box, except when you change out the keg or defrost, so keep it simple. Be sure to install a small hardwood lip to support the bottom outside of the door frame to align it properly, then two opposing window latches (or similar) hold the left and right side of the door tightly closed. Simple solutions are best!
to be honest, I’ve been fighting so many battles with Google just to keep the site alive that I’ve had zero time to work on any new plans. I’m hoping we can recover, otherwise the site might go bust – thanks to Google and the big money players out there like Houzz.com and their spammy house porn site.
most of what you’ll find at Rockler is hardwood. Pine is soft and quite easy to fashion yourself. Did you look at the DIY guide for arm rail molding? It’s in the download area under advanced projects. See: https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_document/17-embp-06-covecut-armrail
I didn’t use hinges at all!
The door was made to fit very snugly, (I made it 1/8″ smaller than the door opening which gives you a mere 1/16th on each side, it would never swing closed with this tight clearance!) then weather stripped around the edges with foam rubber.I then used common window latches that you can find at you hardware store on the middle of the left and right sides. Once the latches are secure, they compress the foam and seal that baby TIGHT! I never open it again until the tap spits and it’s time to change it out for a fresh barrel.
I installed two handles on the door to assist removal. It needs a good tug to open once it’s been sealed for a few weeks. Removing the whole door is great and gives me the max width opening to maneuver that beast in.
This also helps reduce the amount of frost that forms when people keep “checking” to see if the kegs still there…lol I even threw a container of Damp Rid in there to soak up any excess moisture in the air.
The CO2 and regulator MUST stay outside the box. I used a cheap, wired temp sensor and it hangs a few inches from the top of the keg box, right in the fan breeze. That assures a good mixed air reading. The display is mounted up by the tap. Mine stays about 35F and is set to about 50% duty.
One other option is to fore go using hinges at all! Make the door fit snug, then apply latches to each side. This keeps the door tightly closed and as it should STAY closed. The only time the door should be opened is when your keg spits and it’s time to change it.
The CO2 and regulator MUST stay outside so you can adjust pressure. There is no need to keep the super cold liquid CO2 cold. It’s under pressure. A wired digital temp sensor is placed in the box and the display mounted outside where you can read it.