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@dg –
I’d avoid cedar (bar top) if possible. It’s naturally water repellent, so I would NOT apply and finish to the sides. As far as using it for the top, I’d go with a nice A/C grade plywood with a decent grain pattern (requires sorting through the stock pile) and then just applying a cedar color stain and perhaps a Envirtotex finish.
The problem with using envirtoex on cedar is that since it’s water repellant already, I’m not sure how well it would stick and might form a bubble skin between the wood and the epoxy.
I did a Google for “enviotex on cedar” and found a few articles related to fishing lures, so it looks like it will stick, But I’d do a small test section on some scrap first.You can apply a stain to cedar, but I prefer the rough unfinished look by far!
I’m not saying you can’t use cedar for the top…if you have thicker timbers and laminated them together, that would look pretty cool. It is soft, so of you go this direction, be sure to at least have a rough bar top layer (3/4″ plywood) underneath for support. You don’t want someone slamming the bar dice cup down and Karate chopping through the top!
Did you post any photos of the completed bar top in the gallery? I’d love to see the final result.
Quote:My question is why do the plans suggest a run of 3″ and a rise of 1.5″Because if you look at Rockler’s spec sheet, it clearly shows that mounting arrangement.
Also, the 1/8″ difference will not be any problem. If it is in your case, just trim the edge as needed.
Simple as that!If you remain unsure, by a sample and adjust your bar top as needed. It’s usually not needed.
I NEVER trust the dimensions they claim. Always buy a sample first.
One really easy way to improve your cooling is to create a long loop of beer line and place it inside your fridge area right below the freezer plate.
That will super cool the beer that is just about ready to flow through the tap. Also, be sure there is an open air space (for cold air to flow) right up into your tap tower.
The beer in the line is still under pressure so it shouldn’t go flat….unless you’re a very slow drinker.^^^^ I’m sold ^^^^^
Thanks!Always a wise approach. No matter how good or bad any set of plans may be, I always start building the frame, then measure off the work I have created, no matter if it’s a bit off of what the plans say.
The plan is totally symmetrical, so you can lay it out in the reverse to achieve what you seem to need.
It takes a little more brain work, but it’s not that hard.Good job and thanks for the detailed instructions. I usually do a test on some scrap to be sure the veneer doesn’t splinter.
Using a fine tooth blade always helps!Use either the small profile or large profile…small is popular and is closest to the dimensions shown.
However, either will work, but may require some shimming. This is normal for fitting arm rail.
Keep in mind, the published sizes provided by the manufacturer MAY be off from what their drawings show.
Rockler – http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000345AA.pdfIf you study their drawing, the top (large profile) can still be used, you just need to shorten the lower lip and shim it up.
The small profile is very close to the design dimensions. Some minor trimming of the lower lip may be needed.Unfortunately arm rail molding is not 100% plug n play.
If you need more information about their product, please scream at the vendor.The plans just give you the rough gap sizes, you can be off by an 1/8″ horizontally which gives you some wiggle room.
Remember, buy a short section first to be sure it will work for you.
WE CAN NOT GUARANTEE THAT ANY OF THE VENDORS WILL CONTINUE TO MAKE ARM RAIL A CONSISTENT DIMENSION!
So, buy a sample and adjust your overhang as needed for the best fit…but there is no need to be a perfectionist!
Any gaps can be filled with construction adhesive.Also, if you are using a design that calls for only a two layer top, just add another 1 x pine board ir 3/4″ plywood strip under the lower layer lip to act as the new lower lip and to extend it outward as needed. There is no need to change the height or omit critical support boards as suggested in a post above.
If you doubt their dimensions, make your own arm rail using the new Cove Cut Arm Rail Guide.
https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadarea/view_document/17-embp-06-covecut-armrailI just laid it right side up , since it’s virtually impossible to do upside down with the jig.
Just use a sharp fine tooth blade.thanks mg! I didn;t see that (duh!) 😉
A couple questions…
I am guessing the evaporator plate (freezer plate ) is not exposed inside the fridge, just like a chest freezer, right?
Did you do anything to increase surface area? like add water bottles or beer cans? and if so, any bulging or exploding cans from freezing?What’s the lowest temp you’ve gotten out of your keg box using this puppy?
I’m getting eager to rip out my old fridge and retro fit my keg box with this unit.
Glad I save the door and door hardware cause I can still use that for my back garage.
is anyone using one of these for their keg box? looks like I’ll have to spring for one so I can do a little R&D myself.
If the frost is over one half to three quarters of an inche thick of more, I would leave the door closed, remove power from the fridge for several hours until the frost clears.
I place a 10 to 12 inch square plastic tupperware bowl under the freezer plate to collect the water, otherwise it”s all over your keg box floor. Old rags help too.Keep in mind…under normal frost free conditions the freezer plate (or evaporator) gets 20 degree or colder. Once it frosts up, not the surface is insulated with ice and only gets
about 32 degrees, this affects the efficiency and puts unnecessary load on the compressor.So, always start out with a new keg in a frost free state. Keep the door shut and NO PEEKING! Use one of those wired thermometers so the display is outside the keg box.
Also, NEVER put your CO2 tank inside the keg box, just run the gas line through a hole somewhere handy and seal with foam. This way you’re not opening the keg box to check or adjust pressure.Question: Is your keg box upstairs or in a basement and do you live in a high humidity area?
Don’t feel bad, I had the same frost issues on my first keg, but it worked itself out.
I’m seriously considering yanking my fridge out and replacing it with one of those slick new compact freezer units. There is no frost issues because it works like a chest freezer, the whole inside gets super cold. You just throw in a stack of water bottles and blow the fan across them.
Also watch out for excess ice on the freezer (evaporator) plate. High humidity and constant door opening will cause it to frost up faster.
