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The CHBD DOES NOT change the picture. The images are simply the base reference representation. What matters is the actual cut list. If you need to visualize something custom, ask and we can usually whip up a basic model.
Use the new cut list along with the plans assembly document. Those documents are located here: https://www.barplan.com/bpmembers/index.php/downloadindex
Just examine the plans then whack off (eheheh) what you don’t need.
Simple as that…I personally would NOT recommend chopping up a perfectly good kegerator.
There is no need to chop it up, just remove the door and turn it sideways so the door blows into the keg box.
The door could then be fitted to the front of the keg box.The best approach right now for multi keg boxes is to start using a “compact” freezer unit.
http://www.amazon.com/Compact-Freezer-Refrigerator-Lock-Stainless/dp/B000RHWT3M
These provide much better cooling that that old compact fridges.Be sure to add fans inside to circulate the air.
While I really don’t recommend omitting the bar rail, I would recommend going the less expensive route by using a simple right angle rail.
It can be attached the the EHBP-09 using the same configuration and no modification would be needed.To see what I’m talking about, download either the EHBP-01 or EHBP-02 plans and use the same simple type of arm rail used on those plans.
It would also cost 10 times less.
Don’t worry – it will be plenty stable.
It’s not in the plans because people use different tap towers that might require a different size hole.
But, in most cases it’s a 2″ hole.
Also, remember, you should insert a 2 foot (or shorter) tube extending from the inner top of the cold box up through the tower, then run your beer line through the PVC tube.
Just use the white schedule 40 1.5″ ID stuff you find at Home Depot.
This allows cold air to circulate up into the tower, keeping your beer lines cold all the way to your glass.
are you referring to parts 18 and 20?
If so, that issue has been corrected.If you are referring to some other parts, can you please post those part numbers?
Thanks!Looks good so far….but as far as foot rest vs. foot rail? I’d do foot REST! unless of course you have about $600 to blow on brass rail & fittings.
Quote:or better yet, call up some Barplan.com friends and invite them over for a few!I’m down with that!
😆It can be either. The 2x lumber is more durable if you need rough duty. The 1 x pine will work as well. Your choice.
I would simply modify the base unit to accommodate the baseboard heater…provided it does not get over 200 degrees.
I drew up a very basic design that also includes a deflector board to keep hot air from being trapped in your bar back.
You may want to insulate the cavity between the deflector and the bottom shelf.
You would also want to face the front with oak trim, including a strip across the bottom.
You could even but some brass grille from Rockler to cover the front venting area. That would look nice and the best part is that it would keep your bartender nice and warm.
[attachment=0:xms9l0p6]Baseboard Bar Back.jpg[/attachment:xms9l0p6]There’s nothing to be afraid of…the data sheet says it sticks to metal and paper so you’re covered on both.
You will not have any problems with the tickets stubs moving around. Once you pour it on, it’s the consistency of thick oil for quite a long time.
During that time you can uses a toothpick to push down any corners and work any bubbles out. The bubbles actually work themselves out, and the propane torch method works great.This has been done many times at commercial bars. There’s really no trick to it….just jump in and do it!
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Do whatever fits what you have built.
Get out the tape measure, determine what width you need and rip it down to the proper size, or use it as is.
Simple as that…Remember, the plans are not written in stone.
I believe the thinking here is that if a person applied some type of workspace counter covering, like tile, or a thicker laminate or even granite, that you would have to rip it down a bit.
Just go with what works.Nah, that’s perfectly fine. In fact, if you do some digging in the Builder’s Gallery, you may find a few example of exactly what you described.
If you want just a short (maybe 1 to 2 feet) section to round out the corner, you can easily build a modified short section just by using the same framing techniques found in the discarded A section.
Or, just omit it completely…